Ecuador - Central Highlands

7th - 12th August ´08

Our first southerly stop along the Pan-American highway (which runs through Venezuela, Columbia, Chile, Ecuador and Peru) was a remote farmhouse called Papagayo, located 2 hours from Quito. This 150 year old building and surrounding land was home to llamas, horses, cows, sheep, chickens and some delightful staff - a welcome breath of fresh air from the urgency of city life. We had already decided to stay the night in one of their cosy wooden cabins in preparation for our tour of Laguna Quilotoa the next morning. After spending the initial few hours hiking around some inspirational valley trails, we volunteered our inexperienced hands on the farm. We were on cow-milking duty and our patient mentor Marco guided us through the process. Squeeze-and-pull... we were somehow both naturals at the technique :-) Thereafter we continued to amuse ourselves with the animals around the grounds before dining with the other guests at the farm. Having lit the log fire in our cold cabin, we spent some of the night huddling around it whilst keeping it burning.

It was an early start the following morning in which we joined the rest of the tour group to Quilotoa - Ecuador´s most stunning volcanic crater. Our first stop enroute was Saquisili Market... a colourful four-sectioned arena where red-poncho´d folk from remote indigenous villages would converge every thursday morning to sell and trade animals, fresh produce, handicrafts and utensils - it was the ideal place to pick up our alpaca garments and sample some traditional cornbread. A further 3 hours of steep, winding roads followed by a short hike, and we had arrived at the crater viewpoint. Filled with turquiose waters, this amazing crater lagoon had naturally formed when an eruption 350 years ago had caused the glacier tip to break and melt. We continued to hike down the sandy, snake-shaped trail for over an hour before reaching the lagoon itself... and there was only one way to avoid the steep climb back up... on horseback. Under the guidance of indigenous children (some as young as 12 years), we clutched the reins of our uncomfortably saddled mules to eventually reach some overdue and well-deserved soup (local speciality) and chicken. By the time we arrived back at the farmhouse, it was pitch-black and late... we abandonned our plans to continue our travels southwards in exchange for a hot shower and a heart-warming log-fire.

Stuck in the middle of nowhere, the only option we had to continue down our road less-travelled was to hitch-hike (a term the locals used for flagging down a bus). For 30 minutes we stood stranded on the dusty sidelines of the Pan-American highway with our thumbs in the air before managing to hail down a bus heading to our next destination, Banos. We claimed the final two separated seats on the bus only to find the conductor overcharging us by a mere dollar... we were unbothered and oblivious to being taken advantage of, but it outraged a local onboard who immediately struck up an argument with the conductor - the sheer beauty of buses. We rewarded our defence lawyer and her two Puerto-Rican female companions with some snacks we had, and continued conversations with them for the remainder of the journey. When we arrived at Banos, it was set amongst green peaks, enticing waterfalls and nestled alongside the currently active Volcan Tungurahua... a small town with a community feel offering various outdoor activities. Our fearless friends joined us in finding accommodation and thereafter in a $2 almuerzo (a large 2 course menu of the day). Later that night, we all joined the heavy loads of tourist cattle onboard chivas (open-sided trucks with cramped benches) to ascend the volcano up to a viewpoint where there may be an opportunity to see a minor eruption (after its last major eruption in 2006, measures were taken to ensure Banos would not be affected). Instead of spewing gases, we witnessed bizarre crowded scenes around bonfires, smoking barbecues and plenty of Canela (sweet alcoholic drink) consumption to warm everybody up - strange... not what anyone expected, but an experience nonetheless.

After spending the initial part of the next day at a herbal spa (another boasting attribute of Banos) and the latter part lounging in world music cafes, it was time to get our wetsuits on and go canyoning - an activity which involved rapelling down waterfalls. We were joined by 6 other bravehearts and 2 amusingly daring guides. Geared up, we sat on the back of a bumpy open-truck which transported us to our adventure hotspot. Over 2 hours, we tackled 4 powerful waterfalls... two at 15m, one at 10m and the final one at a jaw-dropping 50m. It required balance and co-ordination for the major part but also involved some fun guided tricks... highly recommended activity.

Banos with its diverse offerings was a great town to hang out in for a few days. Its outwardly friendly environment meant that we were continually bumping into old faces and acknowledging new ones. After another 7 hour bus journey and one final night in Guayaquil, we caught our flight to the capital of Peru... next stop Lima.

Ecuador - Quito

4th - 6th August ´08

After a 3 hour flight from the Galapagos Islands, we arrived at Ecuador´s second largest city and another World Heritage Site. At 2800m above sea level and surrounded by picturesque valleys, we knew we would require a couple of days to acclimatise to Quito´s altitude. We stayed in the heart of the new town - Mariscal Sucre - an area that used to be notorious for crime, drugs and prostitution... however, round the clock police enforcement had helped to transform this neighbourhood into a place overflowing with bars, restaurants and travellers. After finding accommodation and checking our clothes in for some long overdue laundry, we explored the surrounding area and spoke to some recommended tour operators.

It had been a few days since we had trapped ourselves within any tourist attractions, but the following morning that lull came to an end. A 2km ride on the skytram (teleferico) up the flanks on Volcan Pichincha brought us to some headspinning heights and spectacular views of the city (4100m above sea level). After walking a mere several steps at this level, we began gasping for breath (the mornings fry-up probably didn´t help either) - we had all good intentions of hiking up to the summit, but with our lack of layers in the chilling wind, these were short-lived. A slow descent followed by a congested local bus ride, and we had arrived in the old town. We lunched in a small, renouned eatery under the cathedral which was also frequented by politicians. A few minutes walk away were the main plazas - full of indigenous women carrying large loads, shoe-shining boys, old folk napping on benches, and surrounded by churches, convents and monasteries... these public squares retained a lot of character. After some spending some hours walking around colonial architecture set against a backdrop of Andean valleys, we headed back to the completely different world of Mariscal Sucre where we ended the night with Mexican food and tequilas.

Our trip to Quito wasn´t quite complete without a visit to the centre of the world (Mitad del Mundo). A 20km through remote villages via two buses brought us to a place on the Equator located at 0 longitude and 0 latitude. After taking some typical photos with one foot in each hemisphere, we left the main complex for the more interesting Museo Solar Inti Nan. Here, a knowledgeable guide took us through a series of exhibits which demonstrated Corriolos Force, and other mind-boggling, gravity-related experiments (including balancing an egg on a nail). When our physics lesson came to an end, the evening was drawing closer - we headed back to the new town in time to book ourselves on a bus heading south through the central highlands, for the following morning.

Ecuador - Galapagos Islands

26th July - 3rd August ´08

Las Islas de Galapagos had inspired Charles Darwin almost 500 years ago and we were excited about exploring these extraordinary islands. We had read that the most common way to experience the wildlife was by taking a cruise (expensive...and there were rumours of several budget cruise ships sinking!), but we had made a firm decision to tackle the islands on our own. After travelling by air, sea and road for several hours, we arrived at the main hub of the Archipelago...Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. We had befriended a couple of California Chicas (Marilyn and Loi) at Baltra airport who were also travelling independant of a cruise and together we went in search of accommodation. Our initial stop on the island was Pelican Bay where the large pelicans roamed freely and fearlessly right next to us... our first taste of what made these islands so famous. Following the road northeast for a further 15 minutes brought us to the Charles Darwin Research Station where we came face to face with the Galapagos Giants. The tortoise nursery here was home to the legendary ´Lonesome George´ - a 70-something year old Pinta tortoise whose lack of mating partners for 36 years had not only made him iconic but had also threatened his particular species to the brink of extinction. Nevertheless, he had recently overcome this drought and had managed to reproduce and please his partner for about 7 straight hours (the average time for a tortoise sexual experience...pretty good). On our way back we bumped into Marilyn and Loi at a local tour operator and the 4 of us celebrated our first night in Galapagos with some shots of Aguadiente (local liquor) before having dinner - we all got on really well together and decided to venture on a tour to Isabella Island after a couple of days.

The following morning we had breakfast at Hotel Espana where we befriended the very vibrant and welcoming owners Esther and her mother Estella. Whilst Estella prepared breakfast for us in a homely environment, she recommended that we visit Tortuga Bay and explained to Preya everything we needed to know about getting there. Preya had not only struck a chord with Estella who insisted on packing a lunch for us, but also with a couple of Ecuadorians (having breakfast as well) who asked if they could join with us to the bay. This was just another example of how Preya´s ability to converse in Spanish took our experiences to another level. It opened many doors and allowed us to understand more about the indigenous people. So many people took interest in the fact that we were of Indian origin (and Preya could speak Spanish)... we had started to create a trail of friends around South America. After a pleasant 3km walk through a winding trail, the pathway opened up to reveal serene turquoise waters and unspoilt white sands - Tortuga Bay. We lay in the sun for several hours with marine iguanas abound - whilst it was an amazing feeling being so close to fearless wildlife, we wondered how these creatures felt about humans.

The following afternoon the four us boarded our sardine-packed boat to Isabella Island (the largest island in the Galapagos) - we never really realised the enormity or temperament of the ocean until we were on a small boat crashing through the waves with nothing on the horizon but more water. For 3 hours we rode the wild waters (one poor lady was sea-sick continuously) before arriving at our destination. We were transferred to our designated hostel, only to be picked up several minutes later to be taken to see some flamingoes at a nearby lake - we only managed to spot two. That evening we dined with the rest of our tour group (a fun mix of travellers - the Galapagos Gang now consisted of the California Chicas, Chilean Carola, Irish Peter, Ecuadorian Carlos, Czech Valerie, French Julian, Spanish Clara and Jordi, and us) after which we headed to the Sea-lion bar. This pier-located, ocean-view bar had a fun-loving owner... with shots of tequila and aguadiente, we ended the night dancing to Salsa, Merengue and Reggatone (a strange mix between hip-hop, techno and latin music).

The next morning we arose early to endure our most physically intense day on the islands, and one in which many people were unprepared for...the climb up volcan Sierra Negra. At 1400m above sea-level, this volcano had a major eruption only 3 years ago and its crater diameter spanned 9km (the second largest in the world). Whilst Preya was one of 6 individuals who braved the reins of a horse, the rest of us trudged through a slippery mixture of mud and manure, and rocky terrain for 7km. When the mist eventually cleared, the views of the crater and surrounding landscapes were amazing making the last 2 hours of climbing all worthwhile. Unfortunately, the misty rain intensified on the way back down creating ankle deep sludge - we had a feeling of relief and accomplishment when we were back on level ground. A quick shower and we were soon on a boat having a bay tour around Las Tinteroras - we saw penguins, blue-footed boobies, sea-lions and the ever-present marine-iguanas. Snorkelling was next on the agenda, but with the evening drawing closer, the marine life wasn't easy to see. Shattered from the day's activities, and with the help of a couple of nightcaps at the sea-lion bar, we slept like babies that night.

Although some of the Galapagos Gang had taken a boat back to Santa Cruz early the following morning, we had decided to stay on an extra night at Isabella Island with Marilyn and Loi. It was a relaxing day in which we hired a taxi to explore the island in more depth, including the Lava Tunnels and La Playa del Amor (Beach of Love). In usual tradition, we ended the night at 1am drinking shots and dancing with the friendly barstaff at the sea-lion bar - it was probably not the wisest move since we had to be up 4 hours later to ride the choppy waters back to Santa Cruz Island.

On arriving back to our base island, we checked into Hotel Espana and thereafter went in search of dive schools. The last time we had been scuba-diving was several years ago in the Dominican Republic, but to submerge in the waters of the Galapagos Islands was something that many people had talked about. Our dive master the following morning was Abram, a 23-year old latin charmer whose lack of English continually forced our Pocket Preya Translator into action. We were also joined by Carey (Carola's room-mate). Whilst we spotted many forms of marine life in the depths of the ocean, it was snorkelling with the sea-lions immediately afterwards that was the real icing on the cake... it was a liberating feeling swimming with these playful yet graceful animals. That evening we met up with Carola, Peter, Carlos and Carey for some great sushi at the elegant, bay-view Red Mangrove Inn. No doubt, because of the company we were in, we ended the night with B52 shots at Bongo Bar.

On our final day on the islands, we took a water taxi and walked a rocky trail to visit the sight of Las Grietas - a large, clear-water crevice of unknown depths where people could snorkel, swim, and dive from the surrounding cliff edges. Enroute back to our hostel, we bought a bottle of wine for our friendly hosts at Hotel Espana for having looked after us (they insisted on sharing it with us :-). And appropriately we ended our final night with good food and in the great company of the Galapagos Gang (5 still remained). During our stay on the islands we had once again met some warming, interesting and fun characters who had made the real difference whilst we were there. Next stop in Ecuador... Quito.

Ecuador - Guayaquil

24th - 25th July ´08

The evening that we arrived in Guayaquil, the city had erupted with scenes of jubilation. It was the birthday of Simon Bolivar (Independance hero) marking a week of festivities...thousands of people had taken to the streets, old and young, celebrating in any way they knew how. After making our way into the town centre and checking into our prebooked accommodation, we headed out to Malecon 2000 - a flagship development lined with bars and restaurants that spanned 2.5km along the River Guayas. We were told that this was a safe area to be in...several blocks away from the river was deemed dangerous (the presence of police on many street corners did instil some level of confidence and reminded us of our stay in Cuba). That night we walked along the riverside promenade listening to live bands whilst eating food from stalls and absorbing the celebratory mood.

The following morning, after talking to an American geneologist about his travels through Peru, we made our way to the historic neighbourhoods of Las Penas and Cerro Santa Ana. These quaint hillside villages had been transformed into idyllic areas with colourful homes and cobblestone streets. We climbed up the 433 steps of Cerro Santa Ana, past numerous galleries and cafes, where the lighthouse and fort were located. In the evening we dined at a parilla (local speciality grills) before the night sky was continously lit up with the explosions of fireworks (today was Guayaquil Foundation Day and the President of Ecuador had arrived to make a speech).

As had been recommended by other travellers, 2 nights was sufficient time in Guayaquil, partly because of the safety aspects but primarily because we had seen the main highlights... we had been very fortunate to find flights to the Galapagos Islands for the following morning and we were looking forward to the wildlife experience of a lifetime.

Chile - Valparaiso

22 - 23 July ´08

After travelling 2 hours westwards on an immaculate bus, we arrived at another World Heritage Site. Valparaiso used to be the most important port in the South Pacific and its mix of student and artist atmosphere gave it a special character. The town itself was built on cerros (hills) with a unique system of ascensores (lifts) to ascend and descend the cerros. Our bus dropped us in the centre of town where we hailed down a collectivo (a taxi that crammed in passengers going in the same direction) to take us to Cerro Concepcion. We checked into the charming, family-run Casa Latina before taking a long walk around the narrow, cobble-stoned streets of our neighbourhood. We made our way past some stunning viewpoints to the top of Cerro Bellavista where we visited the house of Pablo Neruda. As probably the most famous Chilean poet of all time, Pablo Neruda was the third Latin American to win the Nobel Prize for Literature - his 3 storey house was filled with gifts and ornaments from around the world and was strategically located to provide some great views of the city. Thereafter, on recommendation of our Chilean friends from the Thai massage course, we headed downtown to JJ Cruz to sample a local speciality dish, Chorillana. Amongst an array of table-top graffiti and strumming folk-singers, we ate our way through a mountainous plate of fries topped with onions and eggs (but traditionally also beef). As night fell, the rain began to pour down harder and harder creating a maze of waterways around the latern-lit alleyways of our cerro - it made for the perfect setting of dark movie scene.

We arose to perfect blue skies the following morning allowing us to wander around the Open Sky Museum of Cerro Bellavista - called so because many of the walls and buildings around the area had been decorated by artists (it was an open-air gallery). We then lunched on the terrace of Cafe Turri where we absorbed our most memorable restaurant backdrop to date - the Andes over the Pacific Ocean. We basked in the sun drinking wine for several hours... we could have sat there for several days. Someone once described the hills of Valaparaiso as being analagous to the ups and downs of life... when you struggle your way to the top, you are given spectacular rewards. That evening we caught a bus back to Santiago in preparation for our next destination... Ecuador.