Saturday 11 October 2008

Argentina - Salta

18th - 21st September ´08

Crossing the border from Bolivia to Argentina had literally transported us onto another continent, one that had a striking resemblance to western Europe, and in particular Spain. It was eye-opening how we had transitioned from an environment where security measures were near non-existent to one where smartly groomed officers regularly performed stop and search routines... after already emptying our backpacks at border control our 7 hour bus journey was interrupted twice more forcing many passengers to repack again and again (suspicion of coca-leaf imports), before continuing to our destination. And upon our late arrival, we found ourselves immediately adapting to the local culture by dining at a parilla at midnight.

Lounging within the umbrella filled terraces, we spent most of the next day absorbing the infectious moods, drinking beer and tasting a variety of crispy empanadas. Reminiscent of Madrid (and representative of Argentina), most of the city ceased to function between the siesta hours of 1pm and 5pm... a ghost town... signifying the calm before the stormy night of partying ahead. We ended the evening in the lively avenue of Balcarce in which rock bands and dance shows enticed people into the four blocks lined with restaurants and bars... we took front stage seats at a traditional peña cafe where costumed entertainers gracefully danced to live music and rhythmic clapping from the limited audience. The following day continued along the similar empanada theme to the previous one as we familiarised ourselves with the surrounding neighbourhoods... having arrived during youth awareness week, break-dancing teenagers performed acrobatics on the streets to the beat-bopping sounds of their own voices.

On our final day in Salta and on the recommendation from a friend, we decided to venture to Virgin del Cerro... a forest filled hill which as well as hosting decent views of the city was also the setting for a weekly pilgrimmage. Hundreds of devout catholics would ascend the 40 minute trail to seek blessings from the ´Special Virgin´... some believed she was a spiritual healer with the power to cure with her touch whilst others deemed she had an extraordinary connection to God. Following the winding path to the top it was interesting to see men and women of young and old congregating with emotion in anticipation of her appearance. We spent some time immersed within the tranquil surroundings of the slopey hillbanks before heading back to the city centre. Unfortunately due to time contraints from catching our next bus we were unable this mystic healer amongst the masses, however just being there was a unique and worthwhile experience in itself. Next stop... Mendoza.

No comments: