Friday, 19 September 2008

Bolivia - La Paz

2nd - 3rd September ´08

Our Yunguyo border crossing from Peru to Bolivia was relatively straightforward, albeit a little bizarre... the horror stories that we had heard and read about thankfully never materialised - 2 bus changes, 1km of backpack walking, 1 lake crossing and we were on our way to La Paz. As we approached the highest capital city (de facto) in the world (3660m), we were presented with a sensational canyon in which colonial buildings spilled downwards and on arriving in the town centre, indigenous women sporting perfectly perched bowler hats roamed the market-filled streets. On board our 8 hour road-trip we had befriended an Irish couple who joined us in finding accommodation... at almost 4km above sea-level, staggering up the steep alleyways meant that we were repeatedly gasping for breath (an even moreso with our backpacks on). Having had a minimal biscuit-rich bus lunch earlier that afternoon, the 4 of us happily indulged in falafels and beer that night.

Our experiences in South America wouldn´t quite be complete without a visit to the Amazon Basin, and La Paz proved to be the ideal base to do so from. The following morning, after booking ourselves on a jungle trip to Rurrenabaque with the recommended Indigena Tours, we aimlessly roamed the congested plazas, the snake-shaped alleyways, and in particular the Mercado de las Brujas - Witches Market... having stalls overflowing with spells and potions, the eagle-eyed vendors here also sold shrivelled llama foetuses which were considered good-luck charms. That evening whilst in an internet cafe, we were harmlessly approached by a well-spoken, but frail and ragged looking ex-convict who had been released from Santa Cruz prison that very day... we guessed that our conversation with him was just his way of appreciating freedom. This prison had become a real attraction amongst underground travellers... paying 250 Bolivianos to the guards would allow you entry into the prison where you could converse and come face-to-face with the convicts (quite strange paying to go to prison). We had heard that it was mostly full of drug-dealers whose entire families would live inside with them... unique, but disturbing at the same time which is why we had decided against the visit. Next stop... the Amazon.

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