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Bolivia - Potosi
12th September ´08
If you´ve seen or heard about the films ´The Devil´s Miner´or ´Cerro Rico´, then you will already know what Potosi is all about... mines... or more precisely silver mines. At 4060m, the world´s highest city revolves around a shocking culture that has claimed millions of lives over 3 centuries from appalling working conditions. Whilst Potosi once used to be the wealthiest city in South America, and although its silver deposits had depleted,
thousands of miners still take to the shafts in order to extract other minerals which are sold to a smelter on a cooperative basis (finders keepers). Our travels were all about new and unique experiences, and entering the harrowing depths of these mines was something that fulfilled this criteria... so on the same day we arrived we found ourselves a guide to take us into the infamous Cerro Rico (rich mountain).
The life of our guide, Rosa, had entirely centred around mining and she had lost her father several years ago to the commonly fatal silicosis - the average age of a miner upon death being about 40. Having been joined by 2 other German Geezers, and after sizing up our headgear and overalls, our first stop enroute was the miners market where 
we purchased gifts for the workers (coca leaves, soft drinks, alcohol, and dynamite). Our arrival to the entrance of the mine produced a disturbing sight... a narrow, decayed and water-logged shaft. For over 3km we crouched, crawled, and climbed the labyrinth of dark tunnels where occasionally the temperatures exceeded 30 degrees, and at other times dropped below freezing. Against a background of fading explosions, we passed many coca-chewing miners, 
some as young as 14, pushing mineral loaded iron cast trolleys and to whom we offered our gifts. The energy rich coca leaves were an invaluable present known to reduce hunger and coldness, and helping the miners to work continuously. Rosa explained that once an individual decided upon a life within the mines he gave up his catholic religion to worship the miners god - the Devil... as we continued to gasp frantically through the oxygen deficient tunnels, Rosa led us to a shrine dominated by a penis-erected devil pagoda (surrounded by offerings of alcohol and tobacco). Our 3 hour 
experience within the mines had felt like an eternity and we were relieved when we could inhale normally once again. It had been extremely difficult to contemplate the life of a miner... a mere few hours in the tunnel had proved unbelievably tough and shocking. Exhausted, we returned to our human-sized fridge (the nights were bitterly cold at 4km above sea level) in preparation for our next stop... Uyuni.
If you´ve seen or heard about the films ´The Devil´s Miner´or ´Cerro Rico´, then you will already know what Potosi is all about... mines... or more precisely silver mines. At 4060m, the world´s highest city revolves around a shocking culture that has claimed millions of lives over 3 centuries from appalling working conditions. Whilst Potosi once used to be the wealthiest city in South America, and although its silver deposits had depleted,
thousands of miners still take to the shafts in order to extract other minerals which are sold to a smelter on a cooperative basis (finders keepers). Our travels were all about new and unique experiences, and entering the harrowing depths of these mines was something that fulfilled this criteria... so on the same day we arrived we found ourselves a guide to take us into the infamous Cerro Rico (rich mountain).
The life of our guide, Rosa, had entirely centred around mining and she had lost her father several years ago to the commonly fatal silicosis - the average age of a miner upon death being about 40. Having been joined by 2 other German Geezers, and after sizing up our headgear and overalls, our first stop enroute was the miners market where 
we purchased gifts for the workers (coca leaves, soft drinks, alcohol, and dynamite). Our arrival to the entrance of the mine produced a disturbing sight... a narrow, decayed and water-logged shaft. For over 3km we crouched, crawled, and climbed the labyrinth of dark tunnels where occasionally the temperatures exceeded 30 degrees, and at other times dropped below freezing. Against a background of fading explosions, we passed many coca-chewing miners, 
some as young as 14, pushing mineral loaded iron cast trolleys and to whom we offered our gifts. The energy rich coca leaves were an invaluable present known to reduce hunger and coldness, and helping the miners to work continuously. Rosa explained that once an individual decided upon a life within the mines he gave up his catholic religion to worship the miners god - the Devil... as we continued to gasp frantically through the oxygen deficient tunnels, Rosa led us to a shrine dominated by a penis-erected devil pagoda (surrounded by offerings of alcohol and tobacco). Our 3 hour 
experience within the mines had felt like an eternity and we were relieved when we could inhale normally once again. It had been extremely difficult to contemplate the life of a miner... a mere few hours in the tunnel had proved unbelievably tough and shocking. Exhausted, we returned to our human-sized fridge (the nights were bitterly cold at 4km above sea level) in preparation for our next stop... Uyuni.
1 comment:
wow guys! - I am so jealous I could almost scream. It really does sound like you are having the trip of a lifetime.
You are going to have so many fantastic memories from this journey.
You should also write a travel book because reading your posts are ten times better than any guide book I have ever written.
travel well and I can't wait to catch up when you guys get back to boring, miserable old London
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