Our delayed long-haul bus journies were definitely beginning to take their toll, however our arrival in Arequipa was a welcoming sight... an elegant Plaza de Armas housed white-washed colonnial buildings made from sillar - a dazzling volcanic rock from the trinity of surrounding volcanoes: Pichu Pichu, El 
Misti and Chachani. At 2335m above sea level, the hostels in Peru´s second largest city were offering travellers coca-leaf drinks to help acclimatise to the altitude (chewing the raw leaf was also considered to increase alertness, reduce hunger, cold and pain). After finding accommodation we lazily explored the perfect grid shaped streets where the abundance of competing yellow micro-taxis strangely 
gave it a sense of charm. As the intense afternoon sun faded, the night introduced a new climate requiring overcoats and scarves... which we ended in the lively Calle de San Francisco.Over the next day we visited what our Lonely Planet bible regarded as ´must sees´. Firstly, the Monasterio ed Santa Catalina - a mazelike citadel 
that several nuns from Europe had occupied after the Spanish conquest in order to preach and spread the catholic religion. As we stepped back in time exploring the twisting alleyways and fruit-filled courtyards, our knowledgeable guide explained how the living quarters of the nuns varied depending on their wealth (that was until 
a super-nun arrived to oust this behaviour). A casual 30 minute walk to the suburb of Yanahuara brought us to a bench-filled plaza boasting great views of Arequipa and El Misti. It was easy to write-off a few hours here just reading and talking... which we did so effortlessly. That evening, we dined at a small, but slightly upmarket traditional Peruvian restaurant where a blind accordian musician provided the perfect ambience.
that several nuns from Europe had occupied after the Spanish conquest in order to preach and spread the catholic religion. As we stepped back in time exploring the twisting alleyways and fruit-filled courtyards, our knowledgeable guide explained how the living quarters of the nuns varied depending on their wealth (that was until 
a super-nun arrived to oust this behaviour). A casual 30 minute walk to the suburb of Yanahuara brought us to a bench-filled plaza boasting great views of Arequipa and El Misti. It was easy to write-off a few hours here just reading and talking... which we did so effortlessly. That evening, we dined at a small, but slightly upmarket traditional Peruvian restaurant where a blind accordian musician provided the perfect ambience. 
Arequipa reminded us of Banos (Ecuador) in certain respects offering a multitude of activities... it was time once again to put on our gloves and helmets, mount our bikes and cycle across the countryside. Initially unknown to us, our guide Aldo was in fact the National cross-country champion (150km) for his class (30-40 years)... it gave us a real sense of satisfaction to ride alongside him. After 
picking us up from our hostel, Aldo transported us to his home in a small residential area outside the city centre where we geared up and began the journey. Our winding 35km route took us though some ancient Incan valleys, vast farmland, sparse villages and some spectacular views of the mountains. As the terrain changed from slow moving sand to rocky slopes, we made stops along the way where Aldo told us stories of old and introduced us to welcoming faces... it was a rewarding and 
fulfilling activity. When our memorable 4 hours of pedalling came to an end, we headed out to the station later that night to catch our faithful Cruz del Sur bus which hosted cama seats, a meal and even a game of bingo. Arequipa was without a doubt a place that anyone could relax in and soak in the culture for a few days; and as many people had recommended, it would be more fully appreciated if visited before Cusco. Next stop in Peru... Cusco.
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